Selecting the right gown for you

When selecting a gown, first check with the ceremony officiant or coordinator to make certain there are no religious restrictions on the gown you must wear. Certain faiths require a particular neck height or some style of sleeve.  Some clergy won't allow bare shoulders. Choose a dress that is a style which is appropriate for the season and that you feel comfortable in, as well as one that looks attractive on you and is flattering to your figure. Watch how it moves when you walk and how it looks from the back (remember that most of your guests will see more of you from the back than any other way). Know what is best suited for your body type.

BASQUE
A dropped waist style that starts at or below the natural waistline, then dips in the center of the gown in a "V" shape.

DROPPED
A waistline that falls below the natural waistline, ending at the hip area.

EMPIRE
This waistline begins just below the bust area.

NATURAL
This waistline falls at the natural waistline area.

BATEAU
Follows the collarbone line. Little to no scoop.

HALTER
Sleeveless style that fastens at the back of the neck and leaves the shoulders (and sometimes back) bare.

HIGH NECK
Fits close to the neck. Sometimes has a lace overlay to cover up a more revealing neckline.

JEWEL
A round neckline that follows the base of the neck.

OFF THE SHOULDER
An open neckline, with the fabric resting off the shoulders.

PORTRAIT
An off the shoulder type of neckline. Fabric is folder, shawl-like, and frames the shoulders.

QUEEN ANNE
This type of neckline has a high standing collar in the back and high sides that curves down into a low, open sweetheart-like neckline.

SABRINA
A slightly curving neckline that extends from shoulder to shoulder, which curves in at or just below the collarbone.

SCOOP
A U-shaped neckline.

SPAGHETTI STRAPS
Very thin straps that go over the shoulders.

SQUARE
A square or retangular shaped neckline.

STRAPLESS
Shoulders completely bare.

SWEETHEART
This neckline forms a heart shape at the bustline.

TANK
Similar to a scoop neckline, only without sleeves.

V-NECK
A V-shaped neckline

Basic Gown Silhouettes

Empire
The hallmark of the empire style gown is a high waistline (right under the bust) which falls to a slimmer skirt.

A-Line
The most figure-flattering silhouette, the A-line is perfect for brides looking for a slimming shape that can hide a few flaws. This silhouette is a favorite of the top couture designers. An A-line or Princess shape features vertical seams flowing from the shoulders down to a flared skirt (creating and inverted "V" or "A" shape. Has a fitted look at the top and a subtle falling skirt flaring out, tapered or tight fitting bodice, with a close fitting waist that slowly tapers to a flared hem.

Antebellum
A dress with a tight fitting bodice, with a natural waistline that dips two inches to a point in the center front.

Asymmetrical
Fabric falls to one side from the natural waistline

Ball Gown
An off the shoulder bodice with a very tailored natural waistline, and a flowing lavish, very full skirt.

Blouson
Drooping fullness in the fabric from the bodice to the waist, gathered at or below the waist.

Bustle Back
A gown with an exaggerated fullness in the rear of the skirt, built with a pad or frame. This is often done with a bridal train for easier movement at the reception.

Drop Waist
The bodice may be loose, tapered, or tightly fitted, with the waistline of the dress dropping several inches below the natural waist.

Empire
Small, scooped bodice gathering at a high waist with a slim yet full skirt. (A raised waist is a waistline that is about one inch above the natural waistline, which may or may not be an empire waist.)

Mermaid
This sexy silhouette is for curvy brides who don't mind showing off their shape. A very slim dress ending with a fish-like flare. One of the season's hottest look, mermaid gowns are showing up in the collections of top designers.

Princess
Slim fitting bodice and skirt with vertical seams flowing from the shoulder to the hem of the skirt; accentuates the waist but does not hug the body.

Sheath
Narrow, body hugging style without a waist. 
Minimal. Modern. Flawless. For a chic, body-conscious silhouette, look no farther than the smooth lines of a sheath. The sleek sheath silhouette closely follows the line of the body. One of the most demanding silhouettes to wear, sheaths look best on brides who commit to full-body fitness. Also beautiful on short petite slim brides (often with detachable train.)

The following bridal gown information is reprinted from the book "Wedding Gowns and Other Bridal Apparel", by author Jo Packham, President and Founder of Chapelle Ltd.

Alencon

Brussels Lace

A light and delicate lace with subtle patterns that is very beautiful and very expensive.

Chantilly

Venice

A heavy, raised cotton or linen needlepoint lace with floral sprays, foliage, or geometrical designs, which was first made in Venice
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Batiste

a soft, delicate summer fabric made of cotton or a cotton linen blend; the texture is fine and sheer

Chiffon

Crepe

Crepe de Chine

English Net

a fine, sheer cotton netting; a traditional but expensive fabric used in wedding gowns

Eyelet

Faille

Linen

Nylon

Organza

is sheer like its cousin chiffon, only has a more crisply textured fabric which is almost transparent. It may be embroidered with patterns of flowers having rolled edges that are often lightly colored; it is then called embroidered organza. It can also be irredescent. It is often layered as chiffon is, or used for trains and veils

Peau de Soie

winter dress material made of blended fabrics that has a light, silky texture and a dull, satin like finish

Satin

Shantung

Silk

Slipper Satin

a lustrous, light, soft, more closely woven satin fabric made primarily of acetate

Taffeta

Tulle

a fine, sheer net fabric of cotton, nylon, rayon or silk. Point d'Esprit is tulle with dots woven into the pattern

Velvet

a cold weather fabric made of silk, cotton, or a silk cotton blend. The fiber is a thick, soft pile with a matte finish

Voile

a light, open weave fabric of wool, silk, cotton, or cotton polyester blend that is used for informal dress styles

Zibeline

is woven from straight fibers, all laid in a single direction, which produces a shiny nap

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Peplum

Neck - No style should be so loose that it gaps at the neckline. A rounded neckline should settle at the hollow base of your throat; a high neckline should be taut but comfortable.

Bust - The bodice of the gown should lay smoothly across your bosom. If it is a fitted style, it should be snug but not so tight it begins to flatten. Darts should be in line with the fullest part of your bosom. Side seams should extend from the armhole to the hem in a straight line.

Sleeve - If your sleeve style is supposed to fit tightly, there is no way around the fact that arm movements will be somewhat restricted. The cuff should rest at your wrist bone, with any lace or trim extending over your upper hand. Shoulder seams should lie on top of the shoulder and be invisible at the front of the dress.

Waist - If there are bubbles or wrinkles, the dress is too long waisted and should be altered. Make certain that it is not too tight; the day will be a long one and you will want to be comfortable.

Length - Your gown should be 1½ to 2 inches off the floor when you are wearing your wedding shoes. If you want it to touch the floor, make certain that the wedding ceremony or reception is not outside where the gown will drag in the dirt. If the gown does touch the floor, you will have to be very careful not to catch your shoe in the hem. The entire dress should hang gracefully and move with you.

Your bridal ensemble is not complete without the accessories. Be certain to have the gown with you whenever you purchase additional pieces. Make certain the accessories are the same style, color, and quality as the gown.

Choosing Your Headpiece
The style and ornamentation of your headpiece should match the gown. You do not want a long veil with a short dress or diamonds on your headpiece if there are seed pearls on your gown. It is highly recommended that you wear your hair the way you will be wearing it on your wedding day when you try on headpieces. Your final selection should be tried on with the gown to assure that they look together the way you want them to. Practice turning and bending while you are wearing the headpiece, because some designs are difficult to make secure or to move freely in and you want to be comfortable during the ceremony and reception.

Headpieces, of course, can be anything from a circlet of fresh flowers to a magnificent cathedral length veil. Most brides choose a veil of some sort because it makes them "feel like they are as pretty as the pictures in the storybooks."

The wedding veil, one of the most ancient of wedding customs, traditionally stood for youth and virginity, but every era in history has had a style or tradition of its own. In Far Eastern countries, it was believed that evil spirits were especially attracted to women, so, as a protection from harm, all women always wore veils. The Romans believed almost the same: that demon spirits were jealous of peoples' happiness and, because weddings are joyful events, it was necessary to confuse the demons. It was for this reason that the brides wore bright red veils; the color red, representing fire, would confuse and ward off the demons.

In European countries, the tradition of the veil was brought home by returning Crusaders. After that, the veil quickly evolved into a wedding tradition. In those ancient days, the bride was bargained for through her father and was covered in a bridal veil on her wedding day so that she was not revealed to her mate until after the ceremony.

Nellie Custis was the first recorded American woman to wear a long, white veil of lace when she married Lawrence Lewis, an aide to George Washington. Historical accounts say that Nellie chose lace because the Major had once glimpsed her face through the lace curtains of an open window and from that day on could not stop telling her how truly beautiful she had looked!

Most books on etiquette state that mature brides do not wear a veil, even for their first marriage, and that it is generally unacceptable for widows or divorcees to wear a veil. If you are a traditionalist, you will want to follow the dictates of tradition but, if not, you may do or wear whatever feels right for you.

The majority of headpieces have two principal parts. A cap piece or hat and the veil. The cap may be covered simply with silk or satin or may be heavily adorned with beads or flowers. The veil may be made from Russian veiling, a widely spaced weave with diamond shaped holes usually made of a heavier thread, or illusion veiling, which is a tighter weave of nylon or silk tulle. The quality of illusion is increased by the content of silk and the tiny holes.

The style of the bridal gown dictates somewhat the style and length of your veil. You may choose a style that is multilayered or you may prefer a single layer veil. Your veil may be detachable so that you can wear it during the ceremony and take it off for the reception, perhaps leaving on the cap. Traditionally, the longer the veil, the more formal and traditional the gown. Listed on the next page are the types of veils you may consider.

Veils

Blusher - a loose veil worn forward over the face or back over the headpiece, which is often attached to a longer, three tiered veil.

Fly Away - a veil of multi layers that brushes the shoulder, and is usually worn with an informal, ankle length dress or a dress with the detail in the back that you do not want to hide.

Birdcage - a veil which falls just below the chin, is gently shirred at the sides, and is usually attached to a hat.

Fingertip - a veil which gracefully touches the fingertips.

Ballet (or Waltz) - a veil which falls to the ankles.

Chapel - a veil which cascades about 2 1/3 yards from the headpiece.

Cathedral - a veil which cascades about 3 ½ yards from the headpiece and is usually worn with a cathedral train.

For all brides, the term headpiece can be applied to a large number of bridal headcoverings anything from a lace mantilla to flower garlands to decorated garden straw hats. Headpieces have evolved over the centuries. The Romans chose swaths of brilliant yellow to shield the downcast looks of virgin modesty." The Viking queens chose metal skullcaps, while Japanese brides chose and still choose the traditional tsuno kakushi, a white hood that supposedly hides the horns of jealousy. The popular custom of wearing a wreath of orange blossoms, which symbolized fertility, was introduced in Europe, again by the Crusaders.

Today, the symbolic wedding crown can vary from a simple one of flowers to the elaborate headdress that traditional Japanese brides wear, which are so heavy the bride may need to be aided as she moves down the aisle to her groom's side.

What will look best on you? A veil, a garden hat or something more contemporary? The only way to know is to use the same process you used to select your dress. Look through bridal magazines, and visit several stores to inspect their inventory and try them on. When you have decided on a basic style and eliminated all other possibilities, you should narrow your choices down to three selections and then try on the finalists with your gown.

Wear your hair exactly as you intend to wear it on your wedding day. If your hair is smooth and pulled back, a small, exquisitely ornamented headpiece will look best. A chignon can be accented with a profile comb or pillbox. Hair with volume or thick curls can be tamed with a snood of netting decorated with some type of special adornments. Short hair is often best with a Juliet cap or floral wreath. A lace mantilla or tiara will complement any hair length.

You should also be aware of your face type. Generally, the wide brim and low crown of a garden wedding hat will abbreviate an elongated face. If your face is rounder, you can lengthen it with a high tiara or pillbox hat. If you do not know what face type you have, your hairdresser will help you understand the shape of your face and which hairstyle and headpiece will be best for you.

42) Headpieces

Bow - loops of ribbon or fabric worn at the crown of the head or the nape of the neck; may include ribbon or tulle streamers.

Chignon (Banana Clip) - a cluster of fabric, lace, silk flowers or pearl sprays worn at the back of the head. The ornamentation is secured on a comb or curved hair ornament with a spring action grip to hold a large section of hair.

Crown - a traditional ornamented half circle set toward the front of the head.

Fabric Covered Ponytail Band - circle of elastic encased in gathered decorative fabric, such as satin or brocade; may also be adorned with beads, sequins, or other ornamentation to match the bridal gown.

Floral Wreath - a circlet of fresh, silk, or porcelain flowers that can nestle on top of the head or at mid forehead. May also be adorned with ribbon or tulle streamers. A forehead band, which is a strip of decorated fabric, may also be worn in this manner.

Garden Hat - a larger, round crown, wide-brimmed, face framing hat that is usually made of lace, satin, straw, or other stiff, lightweight material. The brim is often boned to hold its shape and may also be decorated with ribbons and fresh or silk flowers. This hat should be worn straight across the head and low over the brow. (Remember that a large-brimmed hat will cast shadows over your face; you will want to pin back the brim for the photographs.)

Half Hat - a small hat, slightly larger than the Juliet Cap covering half or less than half of the back of the head.

Half Wreath - a decorative headpiece covering half or less than half of the head.

Headband - a wide decorative strip of stretch satin, elastic, plastic or other flexible material that is left plain or covered with more ornamental fabrics. It is worn across the top of the head from ear to ear and may be adorned with a variety of materials.

Juliet Cap - an ornately embellished small cap that fits snugly on the top or the back of the head.

Mantilla Veils - a fine lace veiling, which gently frames the face, usually secured to an elegant comb. It may sometimes have a small cap worn underneath to add height.

Picture Hat - an embellished hat with a very large brim.

Pillbox Hat - a small, flat topped, straight-sided round or oval brimless hat worn on top of and straight across the head.

Pouf - a small gathered puff of tulle attached to the back of the headpiece.

Profile - a cluster of fabric, lace, silk flowers, or pearl sprays that are secured on a comb and worn asymmetrically on one side of the head.

Snood - a knitted or crocheted net that encases the hair at the back of the head or nape of the neck. It may be attached to a bow, a clip, or a hat and embellished.

Tiara - an ornate crown, with or without veiling, resting high atop the head.

Tudor Hat - has a somewhat peaked crown with a narrow brim at the front, and can be worn straight across the head over the brow with the hair slightly pulled back off of the face.

Turban - a long scarf of fine linen, silk, or other fabric that is draped or preconstructed soft folds around the head. It is often embellished with jewels.

Wreath - a circular band of fresh, silk, or porcelain flowers which are usually interwoven with ribbons, tulle, lace, or pearls. The hatpiece sits on the crown of the head.